X-MINING X-TALK Vol.7 【Part 2】 Textile Revolution through Co-Creation Applying CWO™

Mr. Taki, what was your first impression when Kyodo Printing first contacted you?

In the fashion industry, trends change from year to year. The only things that would differentiate us in terms of fabric are color and texture. Functionality has certainly been around for a while, but its priority hasn’t always been so high. It is true that the number of functional materials has increased in recent years. However, the market has been dominated by stories such as “this material warms you” without verification of the specifications and effects indicated by manufacturers.

Expressions such as “warm materials” are often just a description of the inherent characteristics of the material. The only thing that could be done was to increase the surface area by rearranging the yarn. Even so, it sold thanks to the claimed functionality. In fact, there were many cases where the product sold on the basis of its image, despite its mediocre performance. In addition, similar too products popped up everywhere to follow the trend each year. Everyone made warm materials because they were popular. There was no overwhelming difference in performance.

In that point, we found that Kyodo Printing’s proposal was highly compatible with our needs because it would enable us not only to achieve differentiation in terms of functionality, but also to offer color variations. At the same time, we were somewhat uncertain because it would be difficult in practice to produce a variety of fabrics from yarn and sell them. However, in the age of sustainability, as the focus on functionality is becoming more important, we now have the strength to sell products based on solid evidence, rather than relying on an intangible image.

That is, until now, the fashion industry has been using the term warm to invoke a particular image.

We have been working in the world of fashion for over 150 years with an emphasis on trends. Kyodo Printing brought us the element of functionality. Then, while making textiles, we feel that we are making some kind of mechanical device. Until now, what we have been doing is to decide what to do with the texture. In comparison, thinking about how to bring out the functional potential of the CWO™ yarn is somewhat similar to the process of making a mechanical device. In other words, maybe nobody has ever made fabrics while thinking about the functional aspect. In our industry it may have been unnecessary to do so that much. Precisely because the material is produced with due attention to its precise machine-like functionality, I think that it is a material that we can offer with confidence not only to Japanese market but also to the worldwide market.

The apparel manufacturer has to pursue fashionability (cool, cute, beautiful) as long as they design outerwear. However, if you go to extremes in that way, you may compromise functionality such as ease of movement, temperature adjustment, and injury prevention. Until now, given that clothing provides multiple functions, we have had the fixed idea that fashionability and functionality is relation of trade off. However, by using CWO™, Takisada succeeded in increasing the degree of freedom of fashion even more than before while ensuring functionality. Pursue the concept of “A and B (trade-on)” rather than “A or B (trade-off)” and create a new category; the idea is truly fascinating. This is a development that our company is completely unable to imitate.

fabric using CWO™

In fashion, I think it is important to first understand the differences in order to combine things with completely different values. That is, to understand the differences, connect them, and make breakthroughs. What is needed for this is people. This time, we had Mr. Saeki, Mr. Tofuku, Mr. Takagi and others from Kyodo Printing, and our staff. However high the potential, we would not have been able to achieve the current results unless there were people to connect the potential with technology. In particular, we have been dealing with fabrics as a wholesaler. We have never been involved in the development of yarn from scratch, although we have had experience in developing fabrics using yarn provided by manufacturers. For that reason alone, the challenge was huge. It would probably not have been possible without the connection with the people involved.

Takisada-Nagoya has already embarked on the branding of fabrics that use CWO™.

Yes. We are promoting a brand of yarn called “NIROL” that contains CWO™. The phrase “Powered by CWO™” will be displayed under the NIROL logo. In our NIROL branding promotion, we have created four more brands focusing on heat shielding function, warmth function, prevention of infrared voyeurism, and photo-aging prevention, and are promoting products for the respective targeted markets. In July 2022, we participated in an exhibition in New York and received a very good response. People overseas generally think rationally about performance, so their reaction to the appeal of functionality is good.

NIROL Exhibition

Originally, we only had the perspective that CWO™ fiber is warm. We didn’t have the slightest idea that our material would enable solutions to problems such as exposure to near-infrared rays leading to infrared voyeurism. Now, I have a renewed sense of the significance of co-creation. I imagine that many things will start to happen from now on.

I am also looking forward to seeing how the functions of CWO™ work in a product, and how they will spread. We have high expectations for the development pursued by Takisada.